Trip Report (mammals) – southwest Western Australia – Nov 2017
Paul Carter
On a mammal-watching trip from 5th to 22nd Nov 2017, with Chi Phan (anti-camping, non-mammalwatching Ms), I saw 23 mammals and +15 reptile species. Numbat, Red-tailed and Brush-tailed Phascogales were the highlights, and I was happy to see Quokka without having to do the Rottnest option.
Route: Perth – Dryandra – Stirling Range – Cheyne Beach – Two Peoples Bay – Gull Rock NP – Albany – Torndirrup NP – Nornalup – Pemberton – Augusta and Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP – Busselton – Perth.
References:
Rohan Clarke’s SW Western Australia report (Oct-Nov 2016).
Steve Morgan’s Australia trip report (Oct 2015).
“The Complete Guide to Finding Mammals of Australia” by David Andrew (2015).
“A Field Guide to the Mammals of Australia” by Peter Menkhorst and Frank Knight.
“Mammals of the Southwest” by Brent Johnson and Carolyn Thomson-Dans – a simple but handy booklet.
MAMMAL LIST – 23 species
1 – Tachyglossus aculeatus – Short-beaked Echidna @ Dryandra and Cheynes Beach.
2 – Isoodon obesulus – Southern Brown Bandicoot @ Cheynes Beach.
3 – Myrmecobius fasciatus – Numbat @ Dryandra.
4 – Dasyurus geoffroii – Western Quoll @ Dryandra.
5 – Antechinus flavipes – Yellow-footed Antechinus @ Gull Rock NP.
6 – Phascogale calura – Red-tailed Phascogale @ Dryandra.
7 – Phascogale tapoatafa – Brush-tailed Phascogale @ Nornalup.
8 – Trichosurus Vulpecula – Common Brushtail Possum @ Dryandra, Nornalup (uncommon), Leeuwin-Naturaliste.
9 – Cercartetus concinnus – Western Pygmy Possum @ Stirling Range, Cheyne Beach, Leeuwin-Naturaliste.
10 – Pseudocheirus occidentalis – Western Ringtail Possum @ Albany, Pemberton, Leeuwin-Naturaliste.
11 – Tarsipes rostratus – Honey Possum @ Stirling Range, Cheynes Beach, Gull Rock, Torndirrup.
12 – Macropus Irma – Western Brush Wallaby @ Dryandra (Arboretum area).
13 – Macropus fuliginosus – Western Grey Kangaroo @ Dryandra, Stirling, Cheyne Beach, Albany …
14 – Setonix brachyurus – Quokka @ Two Peoples Bay.
15 – Bettongia penicillata – Brush-tailed Bettong (Woylie) @ Dryandra.
16 – Nyctophilus geoffroyi – Lesser Long-eared Bat @ Dryandra.
17 – Falsistrellus mackenziei – Western Falsistrelle @ Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP.
18 – Felis catus – Domestic Cat (feral) @ Augusta, Busselton (3 in the reserve).
19 – Vulpes vulpes – Red Fox @ Torndirrup NP, Pemberton and Augusta.
20 – Tursiops aduncus – Indo-Pacific Bottlenose Dolphin @ Nornalup, Bunbury and Perth.
21 – Oryctolagus cuniculus – European Rabbit @ Dryandra, Stirling, Nornalup, Busselton.
22 – Mus musculus – House Mouse @ Busselton.
23 – Rattus fuscipes – Australian Bush Rat @ Albany, Cheyne Beach, Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP.
REPTILE LIST
1 – Echiopsis curta – Bardick @ Cheyne Beach.
2 – Morelia imbricata – Southwestern Carpet Python @ Cheyne Beach. Initially listed as Morelia spilota.
3 – Notechis scutatus – Tiger Snake @ Albany area (a few seen).
4 – Underwoodisaurus milii – Thick-tailed Gecko @ Serpentine.
5 – Christinus marmoratus – Marbled Gecko @ Two Peoples Bay area.
6 – Crenadactylus ocellatus – Clawless Gecko @ Stirling Range Retreat.
7 – Ctenotus schomburgkii – Barred Wedgesnout Skink @ Dryandra. ID not yet confirmed.
8 – Cryptoblepharus buchananii – Buchanan’s Snake-eyed Skink @ Dryandra.
9 – Ctenotus gemmula – Jewelled Southwest Skink @ Nornalup (chalet deck).
10 – Egernia kingie – King’s Skink @ Cheyne Beach (common near beach parking area).
11 – Egernia napoleonis – Southwestern Crevice Skink @ Dryandra, Torndirrup, Mt Frankland, D’Entrecasteaux NP.
12 – Tiliqua rugose – Bobtail Lizard @ Dryandra.
13 – Varanus tristis – Black-headed Monitor @ Serpentine.
14 – Varanus gouldii – Gould’s Goana (Sand Goana) @ Dryandra.
15 – Varanus rosenbergi – Rosenberg’s Monitor (Heath Monitor) @ Stirling Range, Cheynes Beach, Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP.
TRIP NOTES
PERTH
Fri 3 Nov 2017: Flew into Perth
Collected a rental car at the airport and drove to Serpentine on southeast of Perth to stay with friends, Malcolm and Laurence, for 2 nights. Thick-tailed Gecko in their garage and Black-headed Monitor on their roof. I had ordered a Pulsar thermal scope delivered to them; it proved very useful on the trip.
DRYANDRA WOODLAND
Sun 5 Nov 2017: Serpentine to Dryandra
We arrived at Hotham Ridge Winery and Cottages (A$153/n) at around 3.30 pm; staying here as Dryandra Village accommodation (30 mins drive away) had no vacancy this night.
At 6pm we drove to nearby Dryandra Woodland NR and into the village area on Tommingley Rd; arriving at dusk; then drove the Darwinia Loop (Gura Rd – Coolbardie Rd – Marri Rd – Tommingley Rd). We had one Western Quoll and one Woylie (Brush-tailed Bettong); and counted 20 Brushtail Possums on this loop.
Mon 6 Nov 2017: Dryandra Woodland
We drove over to Dryandra Woodland Village and managed to check in early with John, who was very helpful with mammal location tips. I did not get to see Tamar Wallaby at Dryandra; John later said the local population has crashed. We had the Marri Cottage (A$100/n in the off-season) with one Common Brushtail Possum in the nestbox on the verandah.
From 8 – 11pm I drove the Gura Rd area seeing another Woylie.
From 11pm – midnight I walked the Wandoo Trail but only had Brushtail Possums.
Tue 7 Nov 2017: Dryandra Woodland
At 8am we started our morning drive at 10 km/hr looking for numbat; driving Gura Rd – Newell Rd – Marri Rd. On the return drive we had a Numbat cross the track in front of us (on Newell Rd about 1.1 km west of the Newell – Koomar junction). From there we drove up to the Lol Gray picnic area.
On our afternoon drive near the arboretum we had one Western Brush Wallaby (only one of the trip). We stopped at Darwinia Loop Station 5 and I walked up a nearby laterite hill – Barred Wedgesnout Skink. The site info board mentioned that phascogale occur in the Sheoak trees here; I returned that night and scoped one Red-tailed Phascogale; it was down a side-track and about 150 m from the main track but only managed one bad photo. I later scoped two Lesser Long-eared Bats night-roosting 2.5m up a tree-trunk on another Sheoak-forested side-track off Gura Road. Finished up at 12.30am.
STIRLING RANGES
Wed 8 Nov 2017: Dryandra – Wagin Lake – Tambellup – Stirling Ranges
Drove 230 km to Stirling Range NP via Narrogin, Wagin, Borden and Amelup (last fuel stop before Stirling Range).
Checked into Stirling Range Retreat – $139/n in “compact earth cabins”. It has new owners (Virginia and Darren) but Bully has been there 18 years and he gave me some general info including a reference to nearby Paper Collar Creek when I asked about Sheoak trees.
5.30 pm – Chi and I drove to Bluff Knoll area, very windy.
Eve – spotlighting drive up Mt Trio road with Chi. We had a few Honey Possum and one Western Pygmy Possum. I then walked the tracks around the grounds of the retreat, only European Rabbit.
Thu 9 Nov 2017: Stirling Ranges
9am-noon: Stirling Range Drive and east on Salt Lake Road (south of Tambellup) including Camel Lake NR (salt lake) along the northern edge of the NP.
Noon – Bluff Knoll Café for lunch (closed Wednesdays).
4.30-6 pm we drove up to Bluff Knoll and walked the first km of the path, as far as the spring, and back.
At 8pm I drove to Paper Collar Creek (2 km south of Bluff Knoll Café) and spotlit the area; and again from 11pm – midnight. Based on behavior (very mobile up and down the trunks) and when I turned on my torch a flash of grey never to be seen again I had a probable Red-tailed Phascogale. I also had a Brushtail and an unidentified rodent (?) on the ground. This patch of forest is worth exploring if you are in the area.
9-11pm I drove and spotlit Mt Trio Road; at one point having a pair of juvenile honey possum running around my feet.
Midnight to 1.30 am I drove Bluff Knoll road. More Honey Possum and good views of Owlet Nightjar.
CHEYNES BEACH – TWO PEOPLES BAY
Fri 10 Nov 2017: Stirling Ranges – Cheynes Beach
Left Stirling Range and drove south to Albany; visited the parks dept to get a 4-week holiday pass for the parks (A$46) – I never knew about this before the trip.
Cheyne’s Beach Caravan Park – A$155/n for a donga cabin.
Late afternoon drive with Chi to Waychincup Bay to see if was worthwhile for a night drive. From 8pm I spotlit along Waychinicup Drive; a Bardick, at the start of the track was my first snake of the trip. Near the creek I had a Southern Brown Bandicoot.
Sat 11 Nov 2017: Cheynes Beach
0900-1130: I walked up the sandy Hill track with Chi; she turned back after me and soon after that I had a nice +5 foot Southwestern Carpet Python laid across the track. Chi was a bit annoyed at missing it “having put in the effort”.
We then walked the north end of the beach and the forest there. King’s Skink were common in the car-park area at the end of the beach
1730-2130: I walked up the hill track before dusk; turned back after dusk, getting Echidna and Honey Possum.
2300 – Walked the beach woods seeing Australian Bush Rat and a Bandicoot. At 1 am when walking the camp ground I scoped a Western Pygmy Possum at the lower end of Lane 5; getting excellent views.
Sun 12 Nov 2017 Cheynes Beach
0900 – Chi and I walked to the nearby headland on Cheyne beach. I checked the woods out then caught up with Chi on her way back from a long beach walk.
2.45 pm – drove an hour to Two People’s Bay, walked the visitor center picnic site and Little Beach. At dusk we staked out the lawns of the picnic site (per Steve Morgan’s report) and had a Southern Brown Bandicoot come within meters of us as well as two Quokkas; after walking the area we then drove back to Cheyne Beach, arriving 9.30 pm.
From 10 to 11.30 pm at Cheyne Beach I walked around the beach woods, getting Bush Rat again.
Of the bird specialties in the area I had Western Whipbird at Cheynes Beach on the Hill track and Western Bristlebird at Two Peoples Bay. I missed Noisy Scrubbird (but seen before).
ALBANY AREA
Mon 13 Nov 2017: Cheyne’s Beach – Gull Rock NP – Albany
At 0930 I went for a short walk in the beach woods, at one point whilst standing still I had a grey fantail picking flies off me and a splendid fairy wren hopping around my feet.
10.30am we left Cheyne Beach for Albany via Gull Rock NP, visiting the coastal viewpoints.
At 2pm we checked into Big Grove B&B for 3n (A$125/n incl bf); the owner Jim Hollis is a Scottish retiree who kept his 7 acre plot relatively wild to attract the local wildlife. It was a good base close to the park.
Later that afternoon we visited the nearby Torndirrup NP; going past The Gap, Natural Bridge, Blowholes, Stoney Hill, Isthmus Hill and Jimmy Newhill’s Harbour.
9.30-10.30pm I spotlighted/scoped the grounds, getting Western Ringtail Possum, which Jim had told me occurred in the garden; and Bush Rat.
Tue: 14 Nov 2017: Albany – Torndirrup NP
9am we walked Stony Hill and then Isthmus Hill towards Bald Head track.
7-10pm: I spotlighted the Gap, Blow Holes and Isthmus Hill, Honey Possum at the latter.
Wed 15 Nov 2017: Albany Windfarm and Gull Rock NP
9-11am: we drove around the Wind Farm coastal strip, Tiger Snake on the road.
6.30-10pm: I went spotlighting at Gull Rock NP, focusing on the road to Ledge Beach, seeing Yellow-footed Antechinus and Honey Possum.
NORNALUP
Thu 16 Nov 2017: Albany – Nornalup
Drove west from Albany and detoured along the Valley of the Giants Road and explored the Anderson Rd (a forest track 5 km east of Nornalup) and Boxhall Drive concluding it would be good for a night walk.
1pm – managed to check in early at Nornalup Riverside Chalets (A$125/n).
In the afternoon we drove down to Conspicuous Cliffs and walked to the beach and local viewpoints.
That night I walked and drove the Anderson Road area, much lightning and thunder around before it did rain, but I did get very good views of Brush-tailed Phascogale. I had picked up a heat spot the first time I was here but lost it; then returned 2 hours later and it was the phascogale; I had it for about 40 minutes, initially about 7m above ground then coming down to about 2-3m; this site is 40m east of the stream on Anderson Road. There was also a Common Brushtail here, apparently uncommon in the area.
Fri 17 Nov 2017: Nornalup
Mid-morning we drove up to Mt Frankland and did a 2 km walk there; then drove to Fernbrook Falls.
In the evening we drove over to Circular Pool; I waited until dusk for Water Rat but did not wait too long (not seeing it); drove back via Walpole to Nornalup.
At around 9 pm down at the river opposite the chalets, looking for Water Rat known here, I had a Bottlenose Dolphin surface loudly about 15 m from me.
PEMBERTON
Sat 18 Nov 2017: Windy Harbour – Pemberton
From Nornalup we drove first to Snake Gully Lookout near Northcliff; then west and down to the Windy Harbour camp on the coast in D’Entrecasteaux NP, did a loop of some viewpoints and short walks.
We then inland up to Pemberton; having lunch at the Holy Smoke Café before checking into the Pump Hill Farm Cottages for 2 nights (A$145/n).
At 5.30pm in Gloucester NP we came across Gloucester Tree and climbed it (a +50m climb up a Karri eucalyptus tree, using stakes hammered into the tree). It looked familiar and my mother later confirmed that this was the tree that my brother and I had climbed as teenagers 35 years ago.
We then drove down to Eastbrook stream and I found a good track to walk that evening; later walking it for only a few hours, turning back after constant drizzle; Common Brushtail and one Western Ringtail. Possum.
Sun 19 Nov 2017: Pemberton area.
Morning drive: Big Brook arboretum, Beedelup Falls (where we did a short walk), Warren NP (driving the loop along the river) and back to Pemberton.
7-10 pm – I walked and drove the East Brook creek area again, Owlet Nightjar and no ID on the bats here.
LEEUWIN-NATURALISTE NP
Mon 20 Nov 2017: Pemberton – Nannup – Augusta
From Pemberton we drove west to Augusta (south of Margaret River). After visiting the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse area (raining) we drove a circular 5 km track, getting very close walk-up views of a Rosenberg’s Monitor sunning itself.
Sheoak Chalets – A$150/n – on a farm on the west side of Augusta town.
At 4.30 pm we drove Boranup Drive in Leeuwin-Naturaliste NP and I headed back there alone at 8pm, finishing up at 1 am, seeing Common Brushtail Possum, Western Ringtail Possum, Western Pygmy Possum, Australian Bush Rat and Western Falsistrelle.
BUSSELTON – PERTH
Tue 21 Nov 2017: Margaret River – Cape Naturaliste – Busselton
2pm we checked into Inn The Tuarts Guest Lodge.
Late afternoon we visited the nearby Tuart Birdhide and at 7.30 pm I returned to walk the 1.6 km loop trail there; seeing over 10 Western Ringtail Possums (excluding repeat sightings on the loop), 3 feral cats, a few House Mouse and other unidentified rodents; finished up at 10.30 pm.
Wed 22 Nov 2017: Busselton – Bunbury – Preston Beach – Perth
At 10 am we headed north; stopping at Margaret River, Gracetown, lunch at Clairault winery; Yallingup, a drive by of Cape Naturaliste, Bunbury harbour (3 Bottlenose Dolphins offshore) and Preston Beach where we stopped briefly.
Arrived 3.30 pm in Swanbourne, Perth to stay with friends John and Lisa for a few days, before returning to Phuket via KL.
ROUTE SUMMARY
Fri 3 Nov 2017: Perth- Serpentine
Sun 5 Nov 2017: Serpentine to Dryandra
Mon 6 Nov 2017: Dryandra Woodland
Tue 7 Nov 2017: Dryandra Woodland
Wed 8 Nov 2017: Dryandra – Wagin Lake – Tambellup – Stirling Ranges
Thu 9 Nov 2017: Stirling Ranges
Fri 10 Nov 2017: Stirling Ranges – Cheynes Beach
Sat 11 Nov 2017: Cheynes Beach
Sun 12 Nov 2017 Cheynes Beach
Mon 13 Nov 2017: Cheyne’s Beach – Gull Rock NP – Albany
Tue: 14 Nov 2017: Albany – Torndirrup NP
Wed 15 Nov 2017: Albany Windfarm – Gull Rock NP
Thu 16 Nov 2017: Albany – Nornalup
Fri 17 Nov 2017: Nornalup
Sat 18 Nov 2017: Windy Harbour – Pemberton
Sun 19 Nov 2017: Pemberton area.
Mon 20 Nov 2017: Pemberton – Nannup – Augusta
Tue 21 Nov 2017: Margaret River – Cape Naturaliste – Busselton
Wed 22 Nov 2017: Busselton – Bunbury – Preston Beach – Perth